I've take a bit of a sabbatical from writing to catch up, well, on me. Every Summer, I go, go, go and miss out on things happening around here. This year, I had decided to spend a bit more time here in Chicago to see what the hubbub was all about. I've discovered many things happening, I've met people, I've seen things that I haven't seen in 7 years of living here, etc. And let's be honest, I rack up a ton of miles on my vehicle, visiting everyone, but I've also realized that the road goes both ways. I love my friends and family, but this guy needs to experience the city before I leave. That issue will be a separate blog altogether though, for future discussion.
Now, about the new blog. This year, I turned 40 and I decided that this year, I would change things and I have, well, except for the being single thing, but I think that might just be something that I have to live with. But, on a positive note, I did some travel, for me, with me, for my birthday. This is a trip that I needed and a trip that I wanted. I totally stepped outside of my comfort zone on this trip and have tried my best to continue to live like I did while I was abroad.
On my travels, I visited Germany and Italy, with a brief stop in Austria. With my writings here, I won't be discussing every detail of this trip. No, instead, I will be discussing the food, because, well this is a food blog, right? I will tell you though, hostels are awesome! Just wanted to add that little note. I do apologize though, this writing seems and feels to me a bit uninspired, but I needed to get this out, so I could work on my next one. So please, read, enjoy and if it inspires you to travel, go! And I invite and encourage you to please check out the websites of any of the places that I mention. Now, on to Germany.
I had one night in Munich, which is not nearly enough time to truly experience all of the culinary delights that Munich has to offer. I was still a bit nervous about this solo international travel, it actually kind of curbed my appetite. But I was still on a mission for sausage and beer, and I could smell it in the air, it was there, within reach. So, I left the hostel, in search for my first experience and it was a disappointment. But I have no one to blame but myself. I was impatient and nervous and I just wanted sausage, dumplings, and beer!
I found myself lost, in a residential area as the time grew later. I didn’t feel unsafe, but I knew it wasn’t where I was supposed to be. It was taking me away from the sounds and the smells of the area around the hostel. So, I turned around and headed back to the area that I was staying. I walked the sidewalk, looking at the restaurants along the way, and nothing appealed to me. I didn’t want pizza or sushi in Munich. No, I wanted Sausage! I looked across the street where, and that is where everything was happening. What was it? Why were there people there, laughing, talking, skating, and just hanging out? I crossed the street, only to realize that it was the train station that I had left earlier. But it was more than the train station, it was the hub of activity in the immediate area. And why was that the case? Because this was your one stop shop for food and drink. They had a large food court, much like food courts we have here in the US, without the chain nonsense. With the large selection you’d think it would be easy to find sausage and beer. Nope, not as easy as that, but I finally did. There was a small kiosk, that was run by a Korean woman, and she had what I was looking for. Well, part anyway. She had Currywurst and that made me happy. Currywurst is pork sausage, sliced and seasoned with warm curry ketchup, It doesn’t sound like much and might not even sound appealing, but it was a damn good sausage! Not like what I’ve had here in the states. Here, you go to a shady hot dog stand and get sub par product, there, I could taste the pig actually playing in the pen, before being prepped to be turned into delicious, fragrant sausage. I’ve smelled that smell before, during Chriskindlemarket, so it was very reminiscent for me, and I liked it. And a great way to finish off this grand dinner, was to wash it down with a few Augustiner’s at the bar in the Euro Youth Hostel, Munich. Oh, and I can’t forget the ice cold shot of Jagermeister, which I don’t typically drink anymore, however this was a must have to finish off the night.
I left Munich, unsatisfied. I know that I must return and spend a little more time there, to get the experience that I was looking for. But, on to my next destination, Marktschellenberg and the Hotel Lampllehen. From what Max, my cousin’s husband had described, the hotel was amazing and the food, even better. This is why I took three days from Italy, to spend in Germany instead, and he knew that, so he was under pressure. But I was not disappointed in making my decision.
The Hotel Lampllehen was such an amazing experience. The surroundings were incredible, the hotel was clean and comfortable, but you are here to read about food, and it was amazing! I checked in with Lubomir Rehak, the owner of this fantastic place and he informed me that dinner would be served after 5, so I had plenty of time to relax, take in the view and freshen up before having my first, real German dining experience. And that’s exactly what I did, took in the view from my little deck, and listened, to nothing but peace and quiet.
Dinner time came quick and I was ready! I went to the dining area, Lubomir sat me outside, and gave me the rundown of what was being served that night. I opted to go with the dinner package when I reserved my room because I assumed that would be the way to get the most authentic experience. The first dinner was Braised Steak au Poivre in Red Wine, Spatzle, and some pear slices with a berry compote. The Braised Steak au Poivre was amazing. I am not a person that enjoys a piece of beef cooked well done. In fact I think it’s a sin, however this piece of steak was tender and full of flavor! Braising uses a combination of both moist and dry heat. After a quick sear, you finish the cooking in a covered pot with variable amounts of liquid. This process breaks down touch connective tissue in meat, miraculously changing a tough cut of meat, to a tender, palatable and flavorful treat that you will never forget. The sauce was a great balance of peppery flavor, enhanced by the aroma of cooked red wine, thickened perfectly to cover this steak but not weigh it down. And the spatzle, what can I say? I’ve never had it before, and Lubomir explained it is German gnocchi. How could I say no? On the plate it had the appearance of Mac and Cheese, but the flavor? I can’t describe it because I’ve never had it before. It takes on a flavor of it’s own. This was served in a traditional German cheese sauce. Once again, not the weighty cheese you get from Kraft, but a light coating, using Emmentaler cheese. Of course I could’ve made a meal just from the spatzle, but I had to try everything that was offered to me. The pears, were simple, fresh, not gritty, with a fresh berry compote. It made for a great palate cleanser.
I did forget to mention the soup. The soup was a traditional Bohemian Czech Potato soup called Bramboracka. This soup was not your typical cream based potato soup. No, it was a clean and light potato soup. There were wild mushrooms swimming around in the broth that complimented the flavor of the broth. There was an essence of bacon, however no pieces of swine were to be found and I was ok with that because there was enough potato and mushroom, I didn’t need any other texture to add to the mix. And in the blink of an eye, my soup bowl ran dry. This was a sad moment in my life. I inhaled it, because I had not yet learned a very important lesson that the majority of Europeans are taught very early in their lives. But, you will have to read the next blog to learn that lesson. Right now, I have to tell you about dessert. Simple and amazing is all I can say about dessert. It was a Koblihy, which is similar to a Polish paczki(pronounced poonchkey, easiest way to spell it out). This tasty piece of fried dough was filled with a fresh made plum jam and topped with whipped cream and fresh rasberries, then sprinkled with powdered sugar. How I did not gain 10 pounds that first day there is beyond me.
Day 2 began with a simple continental breakfast and then a 4 hour hike to a mountain top church and bar. Of course the descent only took 45 minutes, but by the time it was all said and done, I needed a shower and good hearty food! So as I arrived back at the Hotel, I went straight for my balcony to take in the peace and serenity of my surroundings. And suddenly, that peace and quiet was interrupted by the sounds of hammering. It was coming from directly below my room, so the thought of a quick power nap was out of the question, so I had to investigate to find out what this noise was. I hopped out of the shower to find Lubomir, to find out what the racket was all about. Lubomir welcomed me, once again to the dining area, and promptly seated me outside, where he informed me that on the menu tonight would be spicy sausage and potato soup and schnitzel and boiled potatoes.
I’ve been unable to find the origin of the spicy sausage and potato soup, and frankly, I don’t care, it was that good. The broth, had a slight creaminess to it, with a hearty, meaty flavor and a little spice. The sausage, while I’m not sure what kind of sausage it was, it was great! With as warm as the temps were, I thought I’d be finished after having this soup, but it was pleasantly refreshing. And there was some fresh baked bread to help get rid of the left over broth that I refused to slurp from the bowl.
Up next was the schntizel, the source of the pounding noise that I kept hearing. As I was eating my soup, I heard it again, bam, bam, bam, bam, bam. I knew that the chef was working on my schnitzel and I knew it would be good. It was brought out, simple presentation, on a white plate with a slice of lemon on top and boiled potatoes next to it. This was nothing fancy, but so delicious. I sliced into the pork schnitzel, revealing a thick slice of pork, still juicy with a crisp breading. No sauce needed here because it had an incredible amount of flavor. I bit into my first bite and immediately began singing lines from “My Favorite Things”. But there were no noodles with this schnitzel, just potatoes. The potatoes, also, not fancy, just boiled with salt, pepper, and a little butter. This was not a heavy meal, but it was hearty, comfortably filling, and traditional. After dinner, everything seemed perfect. I vaguely remember dessert and drinks that followed, but it wasn’t because it was bad, it was because I was in a zone. A great zone that I didn’t want to leave. A zone that made me want to throw all of my friends and family on a plane and have them there with me, right at that moment, so they also could have this experience that I was having. To be able to meet Lubomir and his family and stay at his hotel, filling the rooms and the hallways with laughter and good vibes. This is Germany, and I want more!
