Follow my trail, as I cook and eat and photograph, helping those that fear the unknown take a step outside of their comfort zone. And help those looking for new adventures make that connection.
The wind, blowing through the vineyards, the hum of traffic driving the A1, the dull roar of the Frecciarossa speeding up and down the tracks, and the frequent sound of shotguns being fired at cinghiale(wild boar). For some, this would drive them crazy, but for me, this was therapy.
Of course the smells of the countryside were also something that some people desired. During the Fall/Winter, after the harvesting of the grapes, it was the aroma of burning vines that have been trimmed for the following seasons growing period. And when the air wasn't carrying the smell of past grape vines, it was clean and clear, especially on chilly nights, when the sky was crystal clear. What I mean by clean and clear is that you could smell the cool temps. I can't explain it any more, it's just something you need to experience yourself.
I'm starting to wind down writing about my experience in Orvieto with Chef Polegri, Chef Brookmire, and Chef Alessandro. But there are still stories to write about the experience as a whole. I'm thinking it means I need to return soon, so I have more to write about this trio of people that have a true appreciation and passion for food and want nothing more than to help others learn to appreciate what they have at their finger tips.
I've traded the sounds of the countryside for the constant sounds of sirens, snow plows, and traffic. These sounds are almost deafening, because I had become used to the tranquility of the countryside. I mean the most noise that I had to deal with, even in Orvieto was the occasional rowdy group of people heading to or leaving the local bar. The new noise, it can be kind of unsettling, however what the future holds dulls the discomfort.
Until the future comes to fruition, I will continue to keep the traditions and love that I learned for product, in my heart and let my friends and family get a taste of what I learned from my friends in Orvieto. And I will plan my return to Orvieto to revisit, cook, and cleanse my soul. In the meantime, you can check out the Chef's activities via many outlets -
Maybe this will inspire you to take a trip, visit the countryside yourself, whether it be for a week, a few weeks, or a few months. Don't hesitate for too long, just take a leap and try something new. And if you absolutely have no opportunity, you have this, the Chef's cookbook. Although it's not on the US market, if there is enough interest, I may be able to arrange something.
The recipes are simple, the stories are fascinating, and the book is enticing, maybe even inspiring enough to make those who feel like they have no access to travel abroad, find a way to make a dream come true.
More writing to come. A bit more of adventures around Umbria, as well as Paris, Amsterdam, and Vienna.
Spending three months in a small town, one of the things you should do is try to get to know people. Especially people that are in the same industry as yourself. Sometimes it's easy, sometimes not so much. I did try, I really did. I had one real problem though, my addiction to gelato. This brought me to L'Officina del Gelatohttp://www.lofficinadelgelatoorvieto.com and Tommaso Parodi.
Tommaso, originally from Palermo, has been making gelato for over 20 years. And like my chef, Lorenzo Polegri is passionate about, well, everything he is involved with, Tommaso is very passionate about not only life, but his gelato. The passion that he has is revealed in the flavors and quality of his gelato.
L'Officina del Gelato is located on Corso Cavour in Orvieto. I believe he told me he has only been in Orvieto for a year now. Prior to this, he ran a gelateria in Rome, but he wanted to slow down, just a bit and get away from the hustle bustle of the big city. Even though his turn over for gelato was larger in Rome, he never let the quality be compromised. He has always used only fresh, seasonal ingredients. He makes his base as opposed to using an industrial made base and what he uses is posted on a board above the case of gelato - milk, eggs, cream, sugar, fruit, fruit juice, chocolate, and coffee.
Tommaso's beliefs are quoted -" ..... The use of raw materials of high quality allows the gelato ice-cream production exclusively from natural ingredients, with no additives because emulsifiers, artificial flavorings, vegetable fats, dyes and preservatives, replaced by vegetable fibers, fatty and milk proteins. At one time the production of ice cream was obtained using a machine called a sorbet, cooled with ice and salt, and through the freezing "manual", by means of a long stick with a spatula. Today, fortunately, something has changed ..
The basic steps of the preparation (hot) are:
Recipe / formula and dosage
mixing
pasteurization
Emulsification (if any)
maturation
freezing
Hardening (if any)
Conservation / Exposure
The preparation of a good ice cream from the study of the recipe (or formula) with the subsequent assay of raw materials and ingredients of quality."
You can taste a difference in gelato's. Once you have a gelato with a base made from scratch, using fresh, quality, and seasonal ingredients, you'll be able to detect the machine made, mass produced bases. But the big thing, knowing that there is no passion making that industrial base, no true quality control, just the press of a button, that's where the true test shines through. Knowing that Tommaso experiments and uses not only himself, but his employees and a few lucky passers by to test his new flavors before he puts them on offer for the public, shows that he will not sell his product, just because. No, he truly cares about what he sells and serves to us.
Tommaso Parodi and myself.
The other person I was able to get to know, just a bit is Antoni at Blue Bar on Via Garibaldi in Orvieto. Antoni is not like your average Italian, probably because he is French. Why or how did he end up in Italy, let alone a small town like Orvieto? He did it for his wife, Romina, who is from Orvieto.
Antoni, like Tommaso and Lorenzo, has this personality that you can't escape. He is warm and welcoming to all who enter. How you react to his hospitality determines how the rest of your night will go. But truth be told, even the coldest visitor he treats with respect and he will continue to try to get you to warm up to Blue Bar up to the point of you walking out the door.
Come in for a cafe' or cappuccino, one of the best in Orvieto. Or you can stop in, during evening apertivo. You will not be disappointed. However, like many places in Orvieto and Italy, during the afternoon, do not expect them to be open, because it is time for rest, relaxation, and rejuvenation.
Antoni and Blue Bar
I met other fascinating people, but didn't really get to know them, but they stick out in my memory. There was Slavic at Montanucci http://www.barmontanucci.it/main.php, Jimmy at Clandestino, Tiziano -"The porchetta guy" from Baschi, Palmiro -"The cheese guy", and Silviano - "The Sicilian lady killer". And if I would've spent more time at Nando(another and possibly the best bar/pasticceria around) http://www.barpasticcerianando.it, I would have gladly been able to get to know everyone there.
This is Loreonzo Polegri and Silviano - The Sicilian lady killer. I promise you girls, he's a keeper. He had the best arrancia, pera, and carciofi(with volcanic ash still on it), in the market.
Some folks in Orvieto, as I said before, can be kind of cold and unwelcoming to visitors, but I think most small towns, whether you are in Europe or the US, or anywhere in the world can have those people. This is something that you should never let throw you off or make you not want to visit, because for everyone one of those people, there are 5 people that want to know about you, where you are from, what you do, and possibly the biggest connection-WHAT DO YOU LIKE TO EAT!
I've been back in the US for a little more than a week, back at work, and almost back into the swing of things. I had a mind clearing, soul cleansing, life changing experience. An experience that although not everyone can have, I encourage you to try, at least for a week or a few weeks.
Attempting to get back to whatever some consider reality or a normal lifestyle, it's something I hope to avoid, but I did have to go back to work to start bringing pay checks back into the picture. Still, I find myself wanting to write more, because there is so much more to write about. It was three months of cooking, traveling, experiencing, loving, living, eating, drinking, and flushing out the bad to make room for all of the new and good. I am now filled with a new zest for life, a new perspective on the future, and a heart void of anger. I will do everything I can to not let that reenter my life because it makes things toxic and ugly.
That being said, let's talk about something that I learned about on my first night in Orvieto and the first BBQ in the countryside - the Gelato drawer and the Chocolate box.
Now, the story behind the gelato drawer, I don't remember word for word and it's not a deep story, but it's become tradition, and one of the many things that visitors experience and should savour on their visit to the countryside.
It's a simple story of overbuying gelato. This is not your typical gelato though. It is what we here in the US would consider ice cream bars - from ice cream sandwiches to white, dark, and milk chocolate ice cream bars on a stick, and drumsticks. There is a difference in flavor between what we have here and what they have there. Mostly because of the regulations in what ingredients they are allowed to put in their treats, compared to ours.
One evening, I believe it was a year or so prior to our groups arrival, Chef Polegri and Chef Brookmire were hosting an internship group to a BBQ at the home in the countryside. There was some shopping prior to venturing out to the house. Unknowingly by Chef Brookmire, some of the students had picked up some gelato to have after dinner, however she(Chef Brookmire) had also purchased boxes of gelato. After a few laughs from discovery of the gelato avalanche, room was made in Chef Polegri's freezer, and at that time the gelato drawer was born. Besides gelato and an occasional Zuppe Inglese, nothing else occupies the freezer. I don't think that's such a bad thing.
The drawer overfloweth with gelati!
In addition to the gelato offered in the countryside, we were introduced to the chocolate box. I can't remember how the chocolate box came to be, but I'm certainly not unhappy that it exists, and neither is anyone that has had the opportunity to reach in and sample the delicious chocolates that it holds.
What I can tell you about the box is that it is a ceramic box, originally made to hold biscotti, however because of a slight flaw during I assume was the baking process, the lid did not fit properly. Chef Polegri and Chef Brookmire loved this beautiful piece of ceramic artistry, which may I add is typical of Orvieto and the region of Umbria. This piece was made in Deruta, Italy which is located in Umbria.http://derutaitaly.com All of their pieces are hand painted and sold throughout the world. The piece that the Chef's purchased, since it had a flaw, was discounted(what luck!), so they purchased it and designated it as the chocolate box. All who enter Casa Segreta are required(unless you have some unfortunate allergy or sensitivity to chocolate or nuts) to reach in and "have a chocolate!!"
Mama mia!
These are just two of the examples of the hospitality that the Chef's offer on anyone's experience in Orvieto. And this is something that I brought back with me, but sadly, I was unable to bring back a ceramic box, so, until I am able to have a piece from Deruta, this will have to do.
Ours is more of just a box, however it holds the same chocolatey goodness as the chef's.
After a little break, some travel inside and outside of Italy, I'm back. I'd like to focus on the food that we've been working with here in Orvieto.
I've been working this over in my mind for days, and people could write chapters about Italian food. I mean, think, there are 20 regions in Italy, and each region has at least 1 specialty, most have far more than that. I was also trying to figure out how to word this without sounding like a jerk, and I think I have it. I won't criticize those that speak of authentic Italian food, in the US, because I'm certainly no expert. Cooking in Italy, just finishing culinary school, does not make one an expert by any means. I just have a small inside look at it. So, I will chat a bit about some of the great food I've made while cooking here in Orvieto.
We can start with Cinghiale or wild boar. Wild boar here, is like deer in the US. It's bountiful, although I'm not sure how because of the number of hunters and number of gunshots heard throughout the day. My only explanation is maybe they reproduce like bunnies during the off season.
There are multiple uses for boar, like almost any meat. Cure it, grind it, steaks, chops, roasts, you get it. One of the ways we use it at Ristorante Zeppelin is in a Cinghiale stew. It's a simple preparation, can't reveal the ingredients, but I can tell you that it uses great local olive oil, juniper berries, and chef's Matile Merlot. It's thick and hearty, and perfect for the weather that I hear the Midwest is experiencing right now.
Cinghiale stew with sauteed red bell peppers and salata mixta.
You also have Umbrichelli with cinghiale ragout. Umbrichelli is native to the region of Umbria, and it's a pasta made with no egg. It is thicker than spaghetti and has chew. It pairs perfectly with a ragout made with wild boar. The umbrichelli hugs the thick, warm ragout tight, so with every bite, you experience the full flavor and labor of everything that was put into this recipe.
This was one of our staff meals. This is the Umbrichelli served simply with olive oil, black truffles, and parmigiana reggiano.
One of chef's favorite things to make, which he does with vigor and confidence is his tagliatelle. Pairing that with a guanciale carbonara finishes this dish. Guanciale is cured pork cheek, rubbed with salt, pepper, sugar, and other curing spices. It's delicate, however it has a more aggressive flavor, than say your typical bacon. But in a carbonara, the flavors just marry together. For those that do not know, carbonara is a creamy, cheesy, eggy, porky sauce that, for me is like a bowl of your Mothers chicken noodle soup. It's been a life changing dish, and something I will never look at the same again. And the tagliatelle, which is native to Emilia Romagna or Marche, is an egg pasta, similar to fettuccine. The difference comes in the width. Although it may seem minor, even the slightest difference in width makes a difference. Chef Lorenzo Polegri, is accurate, but not overly accurate(wouldn't want it to look like factory made pasta), and quick with his hand cut pasta. His passion shows in the flavor or this dish.
You must be thinking, it's all pasta, pasta, pasta. Most of the time, yes, it's pasta, pasta, pasta. In the home, it's simple, quick, and filling. But the restaurant offers a second and one of the most requested is the Maiale(pork chop) al vino rosso e saltati radicchio. The pork chop with red wine and sautéed raddichio. In the below photo it is plated with a savory chick pea flan.
Maiale al vino rosso e saltati radicchio(Pork Chop with red wine and sautéed radicchio and chick pea flan)
Red wine and pork? Yes, because it works. Most food served at the restaurant is typical of Orvieto/Umbria/Etruscan cuisine, but sometimes you have to think beyond. I mean, who makes the rules? If you are a sommelier, you may question the above dish because white meat(Chicken, Pork, Fish)=white wine. Because white wine is delicate and can cleanse your mouth of the fat, etc. But here, Chef's Matile Merlot is used to essentially do a quick braise like method, after the chop is pan fried. It penetrates the fibers of the chop, giving flavor from the center to the exterior. Then as the merlot cooks away holding the chop, it begins to reduce. When you add just a touch of balsamic reduction, the richness of the reduced merlot triples, lending a tender, rich, unbelievably flavored chop. Finish this and you just want to sleep. But, you can't because you can not leave with out dessert, those are the rules.
Desserts here, are constantly changing. Sometimes traditional, more often than not, something off the cuff. But even the off the cuff desserts begin with a traditional base, but then complimented with whatever sauce the chef decides, sometimes he gives us a bit of a license to be creative. Below are examples.
Zuppe Inglese with a myriad of sauces.
Another version of zuppe inglese with chocolate/espresso sauce and a biscotti.
Ricotta/Alkermes pie.
Ricotta mousse, topped with shaved chocolate. On the side candied almonds and biscotti. Around the plate, various sweet sauces.
Chocolate mousse, topped with a sweetened ricotta, alkermes sauce, and biscotti.
Unconventional biscotti.
And let's not forget about bread. Bread come with every meal, but don't be caught eating bread with your pasta. Bread comes before the meal, traditionally with the antipasti, but if you order pasta, you use the bread to clean your plate. That is also a compliment to the chef to show that you enjoyed the sauce so much, that you don't want a drop to go to waste. So, to clarify, eat your bread with your antipasti and soup. Then eat it again after you finish your pasta, to clean your plate, Scarpini(little shoes).
Various breads and focaccia dough.
Simple rosemary focaccia.
Lumachelle(Snail bread-no, no snails in the bread).
Focaccia with zucchini, pecorino, and pachino tomato.
We had many large groups that passed through the restaurant. This is one of the things that Chef offers to the public. He will demo making tagliatelle and then serve a multi course meal to the group. He also offers small cooking classes to people passing through Orvieto and have heard of him, Ristorante Zeppelin, and his reputation. Sometimes it was one on one, sometimes two, three, or four people. These are the times we do things off the menu.
There is so much more I could write about, so many more photos I could share, but most of you reading this are my Facebook friends, and can refer back to my page to check the photos out. If you are not a Facebook friend or following my Facebook group-FORK OFF https://www.facebook.com/groups/409586672531205/?fref=ts, then please feel free to send me a request.
Remember, you can have these experiences, the choice is yours to make. And I will write more on the experience, Chef Lorenzo and Kim, Chef Carlo Alessandro, Casa Segreta, and about a few of the people I've met while here.
And if you can't swing a trip to Orvieto, there are always cookbooks, which Chef happens to have, which also has stories, recipes, and anecdotes. If you catch me before Jan. 25, let me know and I can grab copies. Thanks to my friends I already have 6 copies coming back with me.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for reading, following, and offering words of encouragement. More writings to come!
I leave you with one of my favorite and true to life scenes from the movie-The Big Night.
