Follow my trail, as I cook and eat and photograph, helping those that fear the unknown take a step outside of their comfort zone. And help those looking for new adventures make that connection.
Showing posts with label Lorenzo Polegri. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lorenzo Polegri. Show all posts
The wind, blowing through the vineyards, the hum of traffic driving the A1, the dull roar of the Frecciarossa speeding up and down the tracks, and the frequent sound of shotguns being fired at cinghiale(wild boar). For some, this would drive them crazy, but for me, this was therapy.
Of course the smells of the countryside were also something that some people desired. During the Fall/Winter, after the harvesting of the grapes, it was the aroma of burning vines that have been trimmed for the following seasons growing period. And when the air wasn't carrying the smell of past grape vines, it was clean and clear, especially on chilly nights, when the sky was crystal clear. What I mean by clean and clear is that you could smell the cool temps. I can't explain it any more, it's just something you need to experience yourself.
I'm starting to wind down writing about my experience in Orvieto with Chef Polegri, Chef Brookmire, and Chef Alessandro. But there are still stories to write about the experience as a whole. I'm thinking it means I need to return soon, so I have more to write about this trio of people that have a true appreciation and passion for food and want nothing more than to help others learn to appreciate what they have at their finger tips.
I've traded the sounds of the countryside for the constant sounds of sirens, snow plows, and traffic. These sounds are almost deafening, because I had become used to the tranquility of the countryside. I mean the most noise that I had to deal with, even in Orvieto was the occasional rowdy group of people heading to or leaving the local bar. The new noise, it can be kind of unsettling, however what the future holds dulls the discomfort.
Until the future comes to fruition, I will continue to keep the traditions and love that I learned for product, in my heart and let my friends and family get a taste of what I learned from my friends in Orvieto. And I will plan my return to Orvieto to revisit, cook, and cleanse my soul. In the meantime, you can check out the Chef's activities via many outlets -
Maybe this will inspire you to take a trip, visit the countryside yourself, whether it be for a week, a few weeks, or a few months. Don't hesitate for too long, just take a leap and try something new. And if you absolutely have no opportunity, you have this, the Chef's cookbook. Although it's not on the US market, if there is enough interest, I may be able to arrange something.
The recipes are simple, the stories are fascinating, and the book is enticing, maybe even inspiring enough to make those who feel like they have no access to travel abroad, find a way to make a dream come true.
More writing to come. A bit more of adventures around Umbria, as well as Paris, Amsterdam, and Vienna.
I've been back in the US for a little more than a week, back at work, and almost back into the swing of things. I had a mind clearing, soul cleansing, life changing experience. An experience that although not everyone can have, I encourage you to try, at least for a week or a few weeks.
Attempting to get back to whatever some consider reality or a normal lifestyle, it's something I hope to avoid, but I did have to go back to work to start bringing pay checks back into the picture. Still, I find myself wanting to write more, because there is so much more to write about. It was three months of cooking, traveling, experiencing, loving, living, eating, drinking, and flushing out the bad to make room for all of the new and good. I am now filled with a new zest for life, a new perspective on the future, and a heart void of anger. I will do everything I can to not let that reenter my life because it makes things toxic and ugly.
That being said, let's talk about something that I learned about on my first night in Orvieto and the first BBQ in the countryside - the Gelato drawer and the Chocolate box.
Now, the story behind the gelato drawer, I don't remember word for word and it's not a deep story, but it's become tradition, and one of the many things that visitors experience and should savour on their visit to the countryside.
It's a simple story of overbuying gelato. This is not your typical gelato though. It is what we here in the US would consider ice cream bars - from ice cream sandwiches to white, dark, and milk chocolate ice cream bars on a stick, and drumsticks. There is a difference in flavor between what we have here and what they have there. Mostly because of the regulations in what ingredients they are allowed to put in their treats, compared to ours.
One evening, I believe it was a year or so prior to our groups arrival, Chef Polegri and Chef Brookmire were hosting an internship group to a BBQ at the home in the countryside. There was some shopping prior to venturing out to the house. Unknowingly by Chef Brookmire, some of the students had picked up some gelato to have after dinner, however she(Chef Brookmire) had also purchased boxes of gelato. After a few laughs from discovery of the gelato avalanche, room was made in Chef Polegri's freezer, and at that time the gelato drawer was born. Besides gelato and an occasional Zuppe Inglese, nothing else occupies the freezer. I don't think that's such a bad thing.
The drawer overfloweth with gelati!
In addition to the gelato offered in the countryside, we were introduced to the chocolate box. I can't remember how the chocolate box came to be, but I'm certainly not unhappy that it exists, and neither is anyone that has had the opportunity to reach in and sample the delicious chocolates that it holds.
What I can tell you about the box is that it is a ceramic box, originally made to hold biscotti, however because of a slight flaw during I assume was the baking process, the lid did not fit properly. Chef Polegri and Chef Brookmire loved this beautiful piece of ceramic artistry, which may I add is typical of Orvieto and the region of Umbria. This piece was made in Deruta, Italy which is located in Umbria.http://derutaitaly.com All of their pieces are hand painted and sold throughout the world. The piece that the Chef's purchased, since it had a flaw, was discounted(what luck!), so they purchased it and designated it as the chocolate box. All who enter Casa Segreta are required(unless you have some unfortunate allergy or sensitivity to chocolate or nuts) to reach in and "have a chocolate!!"
Mama mia!
These are just two of the examples of the hospitality that the Chef's offer on anyone's experience in Orvieto. And this is something that I brought back with me, but sadly, I was unable to bring back a ceramic box, so, until I am able to have a piece from Deruta, this will have to do.
Ours is more of just a box, however it holds the same chocolatey goodness as the chef's.
When you are standing in the middle of 20 acres of vines, in solace and silence, it gives you a chance to think and focus on the things we have before us and our future. It also makes you think about what you are doing in the middle of 20 acres of vines and what, if anything your little bit of trimming will do to help form next years harvest.
"We are all mortal, until the first kiss, and second glass of wine." - Eduardo Galeano
Now let's backtrack a bit, well quite a bit. We'll start with Teodolinda Banfi, the maternal Aunt of Giovanni F. Mariani Sr. He was the founder of Banfi Vintners and she was the inspiration for the firm's name. She great up alongside Cardinal Archbishop Achille Ratti, whom was elected Pope Pius XL in 1922. She was the Governess for the Archbishop and followed him to the Vatican, becoming the first lay woman to live within the walls of the Sistine Palace. She was recorded to have great knowledge in the kitchen, as well as known for her knowledge of great wine. And so the story begins, where she passed this passion on to her nephew Giovanni Mariani Sr.
The Banfi family crest.
Giovanni Mariani Sr. was born in America, in Connecticut to be exact, and at the age of 9, moved to Italy after his father was killed in a work related accident. I should probably mention that Mr. Mariani was born in 1895, so that the story comes together properly. With the passion and love for great wine, that was demonstrated by his zia Teodolinda, Banfi Vintners was established in New York City, and became America's leading wine importer.
It doesn't end there, because Giovanni's son, John, in 1978, made his contribution to the family with the birth of Castello Banfi - http://castellobanfi.com/en/home/ Then his fratello, Harry collaborated with John and they acquired the historic Bruzzone cellars in Strevi, giving way to Banfi Piedmont.
We had the pleasure of visiting Castello Banfi, the largest vineyard in Italy. With roughly 7,100 acres of land, one third is under specialized vine. The other is shared between olive groves, wheat fields, plum trees, truffle stands, forest, and scrub. Photos do not do justice to this scenic local.
I could go on and on about Banfi, but I suggest that you see it yourself. Immerse yourself in the viti and smell the uva, have a prugna, or have pranzo in the Taverna, taste the local tartufo. Seriously, even if you are not a wine drinker, one visit to this region may change your mind.
And we did enjoy a fantastic meal there, with perfect pairings.
Secondo - Tagliata di manzo con funghi porcini e patate arrosto. Perfectly cooked beef with a flavorful porcini sauce and crispy roasted potatoes. The aroma that wafted up from the plate seriously made me weep. And paired with the infamous Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2009.
The meal didn't follow the typical Italian meal structure, which is just fine with me, because after eating what we had, the Dolce was well received.
Dolce - Crostata di ricotta con gelato al cioccolato. I am one that of course the food must have the best flavor possible, obviously. But I do enjoy a magnificent presentation, and we were fortunate to have both with this. Paired with the Florus 2011.
And of course, for digestive purposes, we had caffe corretto. Espresso with Grappa del Castello.
We slowly made our way outside for our tour of the winery, and then departed for our journey back to Orvieto. But the story doesn't end here. No, remember what I had posted at the beginning of this blog? Now it's time to move ahead to the last few days here. Where we had the great fortune to travel to the countryside, to Casa Segreta - http://www.casasegreta.com/#!, to help Chef Lorenzo trim the viti. This is the official introduction of Chef Lorenzo, because he is an integral part of this trip. I'm not going to give his entire bio, right now, because I want to focus on the uva(grapes).
As a novice wine drinker, myself included, don't really consider the amount of care that goes into the product contained in the bottle. It's something I've never considered, until now.
A little background on the vineyard. Chef has been certified as a farmer since 2012, however has been assisting with this process since he was a child. And his Grandfather has owned the land since the 20's, where he raised cattle, sheep, and grew wheat.
There are currently 20 acres of grapes - trebbiano, grechetto, vermintino, viongier, moscato, and merlot. There are two more varieties that he has as well, and for the life of me, I thought I had written them down, but can't find them. Regardless, it is quite a variety. These grapes help produce the wine for Ristorante Zeppelin - Matile, the house/table wine. But don't think that because it's table wine that the labor that goes into the process is any less intense or the love shown for the grapes is any less than those wines that are high priced, and highly prized. I suppose I'm biased, having actually had my hands in the process, but then again, look at the popularity of three buck chuck. And remember, just because you pay $50 for a bottle of wine, doesn't mean that the quality will reflect in the flavor.
After you start your initial growing process, you have time, typically your second year you will begin to see fruit, however your third year should produce a good harvest. The average lifespan of your vines will be 25 years, depending on weather or disease.
In Chef's vineyard, he uses a combination of American and Italian vines. This is a common process around Italy. The Portennesto, Rootstock, is the bottom, the American vine. The top, Marza, is the Italian vine. Obviously, over the years, this process has become easier, however none the less laborious. I searched for a video of the Italian process, but had no luck, but this video is along the same lines.
At this time, you don't just sit and wait and magically fruit appears. No, you must fertilize, manure is obviously the method of choice. You are also once or twice a week tilling the soil. Keeping a close eye on your crop, checking the growth to know when the vines need to be tied to be sure that they do not fall and to help guide them.
On your second year, in March, the vines need to really be watched and tied, and as long as all goes well, by the end of April you will see your first buds. And in order for all of this to come together, there is something that the farmers call the Rule of three 10's. You need 10 cm of bud sprouting, 10 mm of rain, and 10 degrees celsius. For example, if the night goes above 10 celsius, you could have an attack of fungus-Downy Mildew. There are other funguses that can also affect your crop, such as Noble Rot, which can destroy your crop for up to 2 years.
As the year progresses, you continue to watch and guide the vines. Then come Sept./Oct, you are ready to harvest. Currently at Casa Segreta, it is now 80% mechanical harvesting and 20% manual. There are pros and cons to both, such as cost efficiency and the amount being harvested. You still need someone to lead the mechanical, because depending on the height of the vine, someone needs to loosen up the upper fruit. There is also a matter of time efficiency. On chef's farm, 12 people to harvest 20 acres, would take a few weeks, but mechanically it takes 2 days. And a good harvest produces 4 tons of grapes per acre.
In November/December, you begin the process of trimming the vines, to help for next season's crop, which is all manual. And that is where I found myself, the other day. Not a sound, except the wind blowing through the valley, well, and an occasional helicopter. But besides that, it was just me, the vines, and my clippers. And with that, my entire thinking of what some consider to be cheap, flavorless table wine changed.
Chef/Farmer Lorenzo Polegri demonstrating the proper way to trim and clean the vine.
Our helper, Chef's pup-Clara
Grapes on the left, Olives on the right.
My work.
There is hard work put into almost every wine we drink. Is it all palatable? Is it all easy to drink? No, of course not, but there is a reason people come into Ristorante Zeppelin - http://www.ristorantezeppelin.it/eng/restaurant.html and finish multiple bottles of his wine. If they only knew that it was more than just table wine. If they only knew the long days and nights that go into cultivating and caring for the vines. I encourage you to visit a vineyard, and get your hands dirty. You'll never look at a bottle of wine the same way again.
And the day is over.
The perfect way to end a night. A fire in the hearth and a well deserved dinner. I think everyone should have one in their kitchen.
Damn the television personality that travels abroad and shows all of the best places to eat, drink, stay, and see. You bring tourism to the smallest cities, which then overwhelms the village streets with cameras and foot traffic, and then drive the prices up on almost everything! Unfortunately though for Civita di Bagnoregio, all the money in the world will not save this city, which when translated to English, is known as the "the town that is dying". Eventually it will succumb to erosion and always the risk of another earthquake. As sad as it sounds, this amazing little village of a population, I believe is currently 10, still have pride in what they have and insist on staying put until they no longer have anything to stay in.
The view from Bagnoregio
There is quite a rich history in Civita di Bagnoregio. in 500 BC, Civita was founded by the Etruscans. It later fell under Roman rule, then the Franks, then becoming part of the Papal states. It was the birthplace of St. Bonaventure.
Civita was, at one time, the city and Bagnoregio was the suburb. Connected by a foot bridge and donkey path. Since the erosion and earthquakes, it is only connected by a foot bridge, which has been updated over the years. Still, no cars access Civita. The town itself sits like an island surrounded by valleys. And like Orvieto, it is built on Tufo-soft volcanic rock. It's truly a fascinating town, that I will be returning to in a few weeks.
A little panoramic view of one of the valleys that swallows Civita.
What an amazing little Trattoria with so much electricity and warmth. We sat and prepped for our meal. That day we had the opportunity to try their specially made Hazelnut flour gnocchi and their Ravioli with Pear and Porcini.
The wood burning oven.
Entrance to their cave where they store wine and age cured meat.
Some aged, cured meats.
The hazelnut flour gnocchi was a bit more dense than normal gnocchi, but the sweet flavor of toasted hazelnuts was present. It complimented the creamy gorgonzola sauce and removed the typical bitterness of radicchio. I would love to find this made in the states.
Since no one could make up our minds which we would rather try, we had a little sampling of both on our plates. So, we also had the Ravioli with Pear and Porcini sauce. There is nothing better than biting into a perfectly al dente piece of fresh made pasta. It's firm, flavorful, and has a good mouth feel. You can taste the fresh ingredients that were put into the product. You could smell the pears in the air. You could taste the earth that the porcini's came from and with every bite, you could sense the effort and dedicated work that went into making these pillows of happiness.
This is what happens when you can't decide. I should be more indecisive, more often!
Around every corner of Italy that we experience lies a new surprise, a new treat, a new adventure. I'm ready for more, but, I'm also ready to return to Civita and see the dying town that refuses to die.
Well folks, I was going to write about my second stage with the Sunday dinner club and their pizza dinner. But I ran out of time, sadly. The fortunate thing, is that the Sunday Dinner Club is thriving, but I think they want each and every one of you to pay them a visit and eat their delicious food!!! So please, check out their website, shoot them an email, and go, eat, and enjoy!! http://sundaydinnerclub.com
Now, close your eyes and use your imagination. Wait, if you close your eyes you won't be able to read. Maybe read and then close your eyes and go over what you read a few times in your mind. That's how I hope to help you be here with me.
To make a long story short. I began my externship in Chicago, however due to schedule conflicts and an on the job injury, I had to put it on hold. Which, turns out to be a blessing, because the opportunity to due my externship in Orvieto, Italy came to be. And this is where I find myself, typing out this current blog, at sunset, with an amazing view of the countryside. So, follow along, as I hope to be descriptive enough so you can taste the flavors and smell the smells and visualize the sights that I've had to lucky opportunity to experience and continue to experience for the next three months.
I came to Italy a few days early, so my body could adjust to the jet lag. Turns out, I didn't really suffer jet lag, thanks to a tylenol PM and glass of wine on the plane. I have to say, Swiss airlines, even in their coach class is very nice, with as many movies as you can watch on your own screen, as you can squeeze in on your flight. The food? Well, we won't discuss that, lol.
Flew in to Rome and stayed at a great little B&B. Unfortunately the neighborhood, Esquilina was a bit shady, so I didn't roam about too much after dark. There was not much to see in the area, which was fine. All I needed was my morning cappuccino and some gelato, and I'm set. So, not much to tell about Rome. Well, except for the Brioche Con Gelato, and I don't think words can express that one, I mean a sweet brioche bun filled with gelato-pistachio and Fior De Late, like an adult ice cream sandwich.
So, I'm going to make things brief, but try to be descriptive because I've fallen behind on this blog since arriving. We've just been so busy running and working, but I'm not complaining by any means. And I have been thinking about how to format this blog, and I think I'll give a synopsis of my experience so far, and then tell you about the people around me, and their story, because their story is part of my story.
Chef Lorenzo and his significant other, Kim met me at Rome Fiumicino for pick up to Orvieto. We had other passengers as well, Cody, from a new culinary program in Michigan and an older couple from Mass., that had the winning bid on a cooking class and tour with Chef Lorenzo.
We arrived to scenic Orvieto and to Cody and my new home for the next three months. The architecture here and all over Italy is amazing. Very deceptive from what you see on the outside to what exists inside. And in typical European fashion, when you have a B&B or rent your apt out, you rehab with what Ikea has. It's inexpensive and easy to obtain, and it looks modern and it's comfortable. Walking in to the apt, I met Jose, Yodaris, Michelle, and Andrea, all students from Puerto Rico. We hit it off right away, which made the trip even more comfortable. We sat around, got to know each other a bit, then wandered off for a bit of exploring and a beer.
I did get a chance to finally see the restaurant, which was formerly a cave, however when Chef Lorenzo relocated his restaurant there, it had already been converted to a restaurant. There were still some minor construction issues that needed to be taken care of, especially since he had the intentions of having cooking classes/demos for the public, and the popularity of his hosting interns/externs has risen.
Now, I will begin with our adventures with this first blog, this way it doesn't seem like I'm rambling and you don't get bored.
Our fist adventure was to Fattoria Il Secondo Altopiano, to observe the process of making Goat Cheese. Starting from the feeding and milking process to the curdling and aging process. This cozy little farm operates throughout the year and is very non descript. If you saw this farm, you would not know that they produce some of the best artisanal goat cheese around the area. The entire process brings smiles to the family that runs the business. http://www.ilsecondoaltopiano.com They are very passionate about their craft and very informative. When making the cheese and prepping the service of the cheese the room almost glows from the glistening in their eyes.
Obviously, it's a goat farm, so you have typical smells. Or do you? Not really. It smells of hay and a barn, something you wouldn't expect. It's very clean and the goats are living in a very well kept environment. They are happy goats and happy goats make a happy milk, which in turn makes a happy cheese, a creamier cheese, a sweeter cheese. And the farm is in a very scenic location, that I could totally get used to.
The cheese. Although we didn't get description of the young and aged cheeses, I can give you a bit of a run down.
Young goat cheese with pink and red peppercorns and newly pressed olive oil.
Young goat cheese, with pignoli, sesame seeds, and poppy seed.
A platter of various stages of aged goat cheese.
Whipped goat cheese with I believe is fresh ricotta, peppercorns, black pepper and newly pressed olive oil.
After being fed the freshest goat cheese I've ever had and drinking their house wine, I was completely happy and my appetite was satiated. I suggest, if you have never had goat cheese, give it a go. You can find it almost everywhere. Some, mass produced, some from smaller farms. Go for the smaller producer and keep these artisans in business because they are the people that put their love into their product. This visit will not be one that I will soon forget. My only regret is not buying and being able to bring this product home.
I think, I will stop for now and write another this afternoon. Chocolate is my next experience, yes, chocolate making, in Perugia, at Perugina. Mmmmm, chocolate. In fact, I'm feeling inspired, I'm going to write a few this afternoon, after La passeggiata and maybe a gelato. http://www.fodors.com/news/story_4117.html
