Emilia Romagna - La seconda parte

After a great tour of a family owned facility that produces Parmigiano Reggiano, we were off to the Tenuta Rampata estate.  It's owned by the Medici family and is located in the Lambrusco Region.  The Medici family produce some of the best Balsamics, which is not a quick process.  Of course, it can be a quick process, but the resulting product doesn't hold a candle to anything that comes from the Medici family. http://www.acetaiamedici.it

Traditional D.O.P. - Balsamic is prepared with Grape Must that is boiled and then barreled for aging.  The grapes used are Trebiano, which account for around a third of the white wine in Italy.  It tends to lend undistinguishable wine, however in it's peak can be fresh and fruity, but once harvested, it does not keep long.

The Medici family has a breath taking collection of barrels where they are aging balsamic for both families in the area as well as their own to sell to the public.  They use Cherry, Chestnut, Oak, Mulberry, Acacia, and Juniper barrels for unique flavors, however the process is always started in French Oak.

This is just a small portion of the collection of barrels.  The date, type of wood and family name is included on the label.

The Medici's use the three typical levels of aging -

12 -20 years - Young
20 - 25 years - Medium
25 and more - Well, of course, old and the most expensive!

For a young 3 lt. barrel, you will pay 2000 - 4000 euro.

These are the oldest barrels at the estate.  This is also typical of the aging process.  Start with the large, and decrease in size, always leaving a bit of the barrel contents in the barrel, thus always leaving the new to have exposure to well aged.  Notice the cloth covering for the hole in the top of the barrel.  That is how the moisture evaporates, thus allowing the angels share, just like aging Bourbon.

The Balsamics that the Medici family are not for cooking.  The nuances in flavor will be lost with heat applied.  They should also not be used to bury salads or anything else for that matter.  These balsamics should be used to compliment food, from cheese, to chocolate, to gelato, and even steak.  Sure, you can dress your greens with it, but use just a touch, so you get all of the flavors in your mouth.

How do you know you are getting what is called Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale?  You look for one of two codes - API MO, which indicates the balsamic was made in Modena or API RE, which indicates the balsamic was made in Reggio Emilia.  Also, the bottle is sort of an onion shape, typically sealed with wax or gold foil.

The second best balsamic and less expensive, Aceto Balsamico Condimento.  Still aged and well taken care of, since these balsamics have been made by families in Modena for centuries.

Then there is Industriale Aceto Balsamico, which is exactly what it sounds like.  Still aged, even less expensive, however not necessarily aged in wooded barrels and some even have color added so they look the part.

Finally we have what is widely available in almost every supermarket, dollar store, and convenience store - Imitation balsamic.  This is typically cider vinegar with color added to make it look the part.  And believe me, after our tasting, and after you taste the real thing, there will be no issue in distinguishing any of the above.

And please, take my word for it, if you have the opportunity to take a tasting, you won't regret it.  We started with a young tradizionale.  It was fluid, but not watery.  It had sweet tones that were pleasant and smooth on the tongue.  It would've complimented a nice piece of parmigiano reggiano, but I was fine with a little spoonful.  We then moved to a medium aged, where it was a bit thicker, yet same mouthfeel, and just a hint more sweet.  This would've worked well with a nice medium rare steak, sliced and a little drizzle over it.  Finally, we had the 30 year balsamic which was thick, with a slightly chocolate flavor to it.  It would've been perfect over a scoop of Fior di latte gelato or strawberries.

We cleansed our palates with their Lambrusco - Le Tenute Assolo.  Ok, get the snickers out of your system.  This is why we can't have some things in the US.  I'm sure that someone would be completely butt hurt by this label, and I say Vaffanculo(sorry Mom and Aunt Nicki).  But my Americano friends, fret not because it is available in certain places in the US and it goes by the name Solo.  This Lambrusco is not too sweet, a bit dry, and a lot delicious!  Lambrusco, at least in the states has fallen by the wayside, and it's truly a shame.  But if you are a fan of Prosecco, sparkling wine, or Champagne, and you crave red wine, give this a spin.  You will not be disappointed! http://www.medici.it/eng/prod/6-assolo-reggiano-doc-dry.html

We part ways with the Medici family to head to our next destination - Pilastro to visit Salumificio Massimo and check out the process of making Proscuitto di Parma. http://www.salumificiomassimo.it/web/la-nostra-storia/

We arrived, with no fanfare.  In fact, the place looked closed and abandoned.  We walked up to the door, rang the bell a few times, and nothing.  Rang a few more times, and someone answered.  Our guide for the day carried on a short conversation in Italian(and since my Italian speaking capabilities still suck, I understood not one word.)  We entered this dark building, and still could tell nothing from entering.  We were finally informed that we came at the wrong time.  Everyone was off to lunch, so our visit would be brief.

We were lead to the processing room, where one gentleman was working on trimming the fat from aged proscuitto's.  It was a bit chilly with a foul odor in the air, but I could handle this, I mean they are making some of the best cured meats known to man here.

We next entered the aging room, where racks of posterior legs from 9 month old pigs hung, waiting to reached the proper age for consumption.  It almost didn't look real.

Their are 168 proscuitto makers, all D.O.P.  As I stated, from 9 month old pigs, the two posterior legs are harvested and prepped for the one year process.  For one week, you have an initial salting.  Then a a second salt for 3 weeks.  The legs are then cleaned and refrigerated for 2 months.  This is where you have a 25% loss of weight.  They are then washed, dried, and prepped for a 9 month aging.  And then they wait, just hanging around, getting delicious.  And remember, these pigs, they totally died happy, eating cheese, getting fat, and being obliviously happy.

Sadly, this is where our tour ended.  With no one on site to lead us any further, we parted ways with our tour guide and set off to Maranello, the city built by Ferrari.  http://museomaranello.ferrari.com

Although I couldn't rattle off every make and model of Ferrari, honestly because I am almost 100% positive that I would never be able to afford one, I have always had a fascination with them.  They are sleek, stylish, and luxurious.  There is prestige that comes with owning one, some say it's a compensation issue, and that may be true, sometimes.  But to truly appreciate what the Ferrari is, you need to see the history and understand what an important role this vehicle has played over the years in various forms.  You also need to see the machine, face to face, without a sales person breathing over your shoulder.

Running your fingers over the hood, feeling the smooth as glass exterior or taking a deep breath and inhaling the smell of the leathery interior, or sinking into the driver's seat of the model of your choice.  It feels like home, almost.

The Ferrari SA Aperta

We were short on time here as well, and it was rainy and dreary, so a test drive was out of the question, so I had to settle for looking, and looking we did.

Enzo Ferrari not only created a masterpiece, but he also created a lot of jobs, and thus created a city around his factory.  Everything, well almost everything in Maranello is Ferrari red.

This is part of Italy's history and culture and an important part of our tour.  Thanks Chef for showing us that there is more to Ferrari than what we see on TV!

 

After our tour, it was time to seek shelter.  We drove a short distance to Alberi, where we would be staying at the Hotel Corte Degli Estensi - http://www.cortedegliestensi.it/ing/index2.asp

And this is where I end the story.  Tomorrow, day 2, and I'm almost caught up.

You may be thinking that I never work, but you are so wrong.  We have been putting in many hours in the kitchen, and when I catch up, I will share my experiences in the restaurant with you, working along side the kids, being lead by Chef Lorenzo Polegri and Chef Carlo Alessandro.  http://www.ristorantezeppelin.it/index_eng.html

Thanks for following along!